If your re-stretching your own static frames, whether they be wood or aluminum there are some simple tips that can help you ensure that your hard work, and mesh stays properly adhered to the frame. Many times people have problems with getting the screen adhesives to work. We hope to address some of those issues. Unfortunately,
there is no one answer to this problem. Several things can cause your
Adhesive to fail, whether you are using a cyanoacrylate, urethane or
other type of adhesive. The following are some preventive measures you
can take to avoid adhesive failure. Here are 7-tips for screen re-stretching success.
1. You
must make sure the frame-gluing surface is not too smooth. (If you
notice, new frames are sandblasted or roughened mechanically with a grinder; this is done to improve Adhesion.) Sometimes a rough (80 grit)
sandpaper is needed to give the frame some "roughen" or area that the
adhesive can grab onto. 2. On the other hand,
your frames should be clean of old fabric, ink, oils, and excessive
adhesive residue. Intimate adhesive contact to the frame is critical,
especially under high tension. Adhesive-to-adhesive bonds are not as
strong as adhesive-to-metal or adhesive-to-wood bonds. Frames can be
cleaned (prior to applying new adhesive) with a de-bonding Solvent, or a
solvent like acetone to remove adhesive, inks, dirt, and oils. 3.
It is also very important that you select the right adhesive Viscosity
for each particular Mesh count. A
good rule of thumb is: Trade grades of adhesive are also
available that are 600 centipoise for use on mesh counts from 110 to
355. Some adhesive viscosities are denoted by LV (low viscosity) and HV
(high viscosity). Proper selection will ensure that the adhesive will
flow through the fabric and provide a good Bond by bridging the gap
between the fabric and the frame. 4. When
using two-part adhesives that need to be mixed, (versus cyanoacrylate
adhesives that do not), it is important to follow the manufacturer's
recommendation for the proper mixing ratio. Failure to do so can cause
problems with curing times and/or solvent resistance. 5.
When you activate a cyanoacrylate adhesive with either the pump or
aerosol type activator (this speeds drying time), keep in mind that it
only takes a light misting to start the curing process. If you spray
too much activator on the adhesive, you can cause the adhesive to turn
white or "bloom." This can adversely affect the adhesive's strength. 6.
Likewise, beware of the old adage, "If a little is good, a lot is
better," when it comes to applying the adhesive. You only need a thin
coating of adhesive to adhere the fabric to the frame. If the adhesive
layer is too thick, the activator may only Cure the top portion, while
the portion that is in contact with the frame is still wet and may not
cure for a few more minutes. If you feel you need a thick layer of
adhesive for solvent resistance, add a second layer after the first
layer is fully cured. 7. Check to make
sure your frames are not warped, and that the face of the frames are
completely level. If your frame does not lie flat, this may cause the
fabric to remain raised off affected areas of the frame surface after
you pass these spots with the adhesive applicator. A quick remedy for
this would be to add weights on the inside and/or outside of the frame
during gluing to bring the fabric into intimate contact with the frame.
A one-inch steel bar stock can be used for this purpose.
|